A Move Down South
After nearly 7 years of living in the far north of the island we have moved to the south of the island. Moving from the north to the south of Saint Lucia feels like stepping out of a vibrant, beachside carnival into a Sunday afternoon nature documentary. It’s not just a change in scenery; it’s a whole shift in lifestyle, mindset and occasionally your tolerance for farm animal encounters.
The North: Where Life’s a Party
Living in the north of Saint Lucia, particularly around Gros Islet or Rodney Bay, feels like you’re in the heart of the action. Restaurants, bars, and hotels line the streets, serving up everything from authentic Creole dishes to sushi (yes, sushi in the Caribbean). Friday nights? Forget Netflix; the Gros Islet Street Party has you covered with pulsating music, fresh grilled fish, and Piton beers flowing like the nearby Caribbean waves.
Need something? It’s probably within walking distance. Supermarkets? Check. Boutiques? Check. Fast Wi-Fi? Double check. Whether it’s a cappuccino at a chic café or a dip in a resort pool you technically didn’t pay for, the north caters to the quick-fix, convenience-loving crowd.
But there’s a catch. Life in the north can get…busy. Traffic along the Castries-Gros Islet Highway rivals rush hour in a major city, especially during tourist season. And let’s be honest: sometimes, all that nightlife leaves you yearning for a good night’s sleep and the sound of crickets instead of karaoke.
Despite us living in one of the popular areas near the golf courses, the noises of late night parties from short let and Air BnB houses used to drive us insane. Let alone the sound of a garden strimmer or someone’s house renovations at 7am in the morning. When we moved to Saint Lucia back in 2017, I had requested that we move about to explore all of the island, so it was time to live in the south.
The South: Nature Calls (Literally)
Enter the south, where Soufrière, Vieux Fort, and their sleepy neighbors promise a stark contrast to the north’s buzz. Moving south is like pressing the “slow-mo” button on life. The pace drops, and so do the number of people in your line at the bank. Instead of sprawling malls, you’ve got winding country roads framed by banana plantations, the majestic Pitons looming in the distance, and the occasional cow giving you side-eye as you drive past.
The south boasts Saint Lucia’s most iconic attractions: the Sulphur Springs, Diamond Falls and Anse Chastanet Beach. But living here means you’re not just visiting these wonders; they’re your backyard. Who needs happy hour when you’ve got a sunset over Petit Piton?
However, “natural” living comes with quirks. Grocery shopping? Prepare for fewer options and longer drives. Craving pizza at 9 PM? Sorry, most places are closed, and no, there’s no delivery. Supermarkets close at 1pm on a Sunday (we learnt that the hard way! Plan ahead for Sunday Liming!). But hey, you’re in the countryside—why not whip up something using fresh produce from the local market or your garden?
I do now need to visit the north to get my “natural blonde..ahem” touched up, every 6 weeks so use that time as a chance to pick up the products that I cannot get down south. For a niche Food Blogger, it’s frustrating but the 2 hour drive gives me a chance to catch up on podcasts. It’s truly bizarre that the same supermarket varies it’s variety of products from one end of the island to the other. The island shopping “quest” issues are even stronger down south!
Social Life: From Flash to Familiar
In the north, you could meet a new person every day without even trying. The south? Not so much. Here, everyone knows everyone, and by day three, the lady at the corner shop will greet you by name and inquire about your family. It’s charming, if not a bit disarming when you realize your business isn’t just yours anymore. We are a mixed race couple with British accents, driving a Mercedes so stand out immediately!
But the smaller community vibe has its perks. Forget about honking horns and rushing crowds. In the south, social gatherings revolve around family barbecues, community events and impromptu beach picnics. The country and western vibe here is larger than the north and almost part of a Sunday sound now! You might even find yourself enjoying the simple pleasure of a quiet evening under a sky packed with stars—not something you see too often in the light-polluted north. The star watching here is fantastic as there is hardly any light pollution.
One of my favorite things about living down south is that any music or noise from the neighborhood during the day or early evening seems to instantly switch off by 10pm. After the many late night Fetes at Cap Estate keeping us and the animals awake until the early hours, this is such a welcome blessing!! That feeling of dread when I hear music start at 6pm has gone and we now enjoy the vibe of the southern charm.
Adjustments: A Laughable Learning Curve
Moving south isn’t without its learning curve. Your northern instinct to speed through life gets replaced by an almost zen-like patience. Traffic jams? Gone. Replaced by roadblocks caused by goats or a neighbor casually having a chat in the middle of the street.
There’s also the “what time is it?” phenomenon. In the north, punctuality is key, but in the south, island time takes on a whole new meaning. A “quick meeting” might span an hour, and “just now” could mean anything from five minutes to tomorrow. You’ll get used to it—eventually.
And then there’s the adjustment to silence. In the north, you’re surrounded by the hum of life, from party music to the clinking of glasses. The south, on the other hand, introduces you to the nocturnal orchestra of frogs, crickets and occasionally a rogue rooster who has no idea how clocks work. Our pack of animals have started sleeping later so now wake us up at 6am rather than 5am which is much appreciated. They too, are enjoying the southern vibe.
Happily all our animals are now settled. It was a “challenge” moving 4 dogs and 3 cats between 2 cars for a 2 hour drive but we took our vet’s advice and woke them up before sunrise to drive them early in the morning when they are sleepy. Plus the traffic was very quiet so the journey was fairly smooth.
They have all been taken aback at their introduction to the neighborhood cows as it’s the first time they have ever seen them. The country life seems to agree with them though and we are all settled into a more relaxed pace of life. Plus I am now closer to my very favorite food/restaurant, Faye Gastronomie Caraibes which means my fridge is stocked with many tasty treats and the best butter on the island!
The soil down south is so fertile too! We struggled to grow herbs and vegetables up north, but our garden in the south is bursting with fruit and vegetables! I have started cooking with some of the items too, and going to pick your own lemons and guavas in the morning is a delightful feeling.
Final Thoughts: A Tale of Two Worlds
Moving from the north to the south of Saint Lucia isn’t just a change of address; it’s a transformation. It’s about swapping convenience for authenticity, nightlife for starlight and speed for serenity. Sure, you’ll miss the sushi nights and instant cappuccinos, but you’ll gain a front-row seat to nature’s daily showcase.
And when you find yourself sipping coconut water fresh from the tree, gazing at the Pitons while a goat serenades you with a faint baa in the distance, you’ll know: the south may be slower, but it’s the sweet, soulful side of Saint Lucia you didn’t know you needed.
